The Calico Museum of Textiles in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, stands as one of India’s most revered centers for the preservation and celebration of the country’s rich and diverse textile heritage. Established in 1949 by industrialists Gautam Sarabhai and his sister Gira Sarabhai, the museum honors India’s centuries-old traditions of weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and fabric art, with treasures that span over 500 years. It is not just a museum but an immersive journey through the history, artistry, and cultural evolution of Indian textiles, making it a must-visit destination for historians, designers, scholars, and enthusiasts alike.
Origins and Historical Significance
The inception of the Calico Museum was deeply inspired by Ananda Coomaraswamy, a pioneering historian and philosopher of Indian art who recognized the threat that modernization posed to traditional Indian textile arts. He envisaged a dedicated institute to study and preserve textile heritage in Ahmedabad, which historically was one of India’s most important textile production centers dating back to the 15th century.
Gautam and Gira Sarabhai, children of the influential Sarabhai family that owned the renowned Calico Mills, took this vision forward. The museum was originally housed within the Calico Mills compound before moving in 1983 to its present premises—‘The Retreat’—a gracious mansion with botanical gardens in the Shahibaug area of Ahmedabad. This relocation provided ample space and an atmospheric setting ideal for the museum’s growing collection.
Architectural Setting and Layout
The museum’s current location, The Retreat, belongs to the Sarabhai family estate and brilliantly integrates traditional Gujarati architectural aesthetics with a modern museological approach. The building features intricately carved wooden facades salvaged from old Gujarati havelis (mansions), which were carefully dismantled and reassembled around a courtyard designed for exhibitions and visitor engagement. This melding of architecture itself is a celebration of India’s artisanal brilliance.
The Calico Museum is divided mainly into two wings: the Haveli wing and the Chauk wing. The Haveli houses religious textiles, devotional paintings, Jain art, temple hangings, South Indian bronzes, and miniature paintings. The Chauk focuses on secular textiles, showcasing royal tents, carpets, courtly costumes, regional embroideries, export fabrics, and works illustrating the technical diversity of textile crafts across India.
Remarkable Collections
One of the most extraordinary features of the Calico Museum is its vast, diverse, and well-preserved collection of textiles that vividly illustrate the depth and craft traditions of India’s past and present. Some highlights include:
- Antique and rare textiles dating back as far as the 15th century, including court textiles used by Mughal emperors and regional rulers.
- Kashmiri shawls with intricate hand embroidery, some of which took up to three years to complete.
- Double ikat fabrics, such as the legendary patolas from Gujarat and Odisha, where each thread is individually dyed before weaving—a process so complex it involves up to 100,000 threads.
- Embroideries from Punjab (phulkari), Rajasthan (bandhani tie-dye), Bengal (kantha stitch), and Maharashtra (paithani silks), reflecting regional artistry.
- Trade textiles from the 17th century made for the Portuguese, Dutch, and English markets, highlighting India’s role in global trade.
- Religious and ritual textiles including exquisite temple cloths, devotional paintings on fabric, and illustrated Jain manuscripts.
- Royal tents, carpets, and furnishings that narrate stories of regal Indian artisanship and the lifestyle of the Indian nobility.
- Unique exhibits like the kinkhab tent of Shah Jahan, showcasing the luxury of the Mughal era.
Besides fabrics, the museum possesses detailed galleries on textile techniques, looms, embroidery tools, dyeing processes, and printing methods, offering visitors both artistic beauty and educational insights into craftsmanship.
Educational and Cultural Role
Beyond displaying textiles, the Calico Museum plays a vital educational role. It acts as a center for textile research, conservation, and publication. Many prominent art historians and textile scholars, including John Irwin and Alfred Bühler, have collaborated with the museum to document and study India’s textile arts.
The museum organizes workshops, seminars, and guided tours aimed at students, researchers, and designers. These initiatives foster appreciation and encourage future generations to sustain India’s textile traditions in an era dominated by mechanized production.
The museum’s library is a significant resource, housing books and manuscripts on textile history, art, and techniques. Its contribution extends into influencing curriculum for design education, notably aiding institutions like the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad.
Visitor Information
Visiting the Calico Museum offers a uniquely intimate and curated experience. The museum allows small group tours, with morning sessions dedicated to exploring the main textiles collection and afternoon tours focusing on religious art and devotional textiles. Due to the delicate nature of the exhibits, visits are carefully regulated, ensuring preservation and personalized attention.
The museum is open from 10:30 AM to 3:00 PM, closed on Wednesdays and all public holidays. Visitors need to book in advance, as the maximum group size is limited to ensure quality viewing and preservation standards. Photography outside the main exhibitions is permitted, allowing visitors to capture the museum’s architectural beauty and gardens.
Conclusion
The Calico Museum of Textiles is much more than a repository of old fabrics; it is a living chronicle of India’s unparalleled textile legacy. Through its expansive collection, exquisite craftsmanship, and educational efforts, the museum captures the cultural, historical, and technical achievements of Indian artisans over centuries.
For anyone interested in art, history, fashion, or culture, the Calico Museum provides an inspiring glimpse into the soul of India’s textile traditions, preserving them as a vibrant heritage for future generations to cherish. It stands as a testament to the art of weaving stories not just in threads and fabrics, but in the cultural fabric of India itself.
